David Tanis has an armchair approach to talking about cooking that allows you to feel as if your best friend is cutting vegetables and chopping herbs right next to you.
Lately, he’s been doing just that with me, first at the Hollywood Farmers Market to buy produce and then back at The Times ’new test kitchen, where he created three dishes with what he found on the market, each emblem of his simple, respectful. cooking style.
Persimmon and Pomegranate Salad With Bitter Lettuce
“This salad has a nice combination of sweet and bitter, my favorite pairing. The proportions of the salad are whatever you want, so if you like more or less one fruit or lettuce, do that. You can also use any kind of citrus. “Whatever you have on hand. If you don’t have lettuce, the fruit is a great salad in itself with a few mint leaves added. It would be great with some sliced fennel, too.”
Peel 3 ripe Fuyu persimmons, then cut them in half. Cut each half lengthwise into-inch-thick slices. Add them to a large bowl, then cut 2 medium grenades and pick the arils, letting them fall over the persimmons. Season the fruit with salt and pepper, then press over the juice of 1 large Meyer lemon. Pour over a few tablespoons of olive oil, then use your hands to toss everything together until the fruit is well dressed. Separate the leaves of 1 head of Treviso or radicchio and the soft inner leaves of 1 head of Castelfranco lettuce and add them to the bowl. Gently drag the leaves through the juices of the fruit and vinaigrette. Taste for more spice and serve.
Radish Salad With Lime and Parmesan
“It’s nice to make salads out of things you wouldn’t normally do, like this one, which is mostly radishes. If I did this without greens, I would just spoon some cream. Thinly sliced black radishes with cream and salt are so delicious. Think of a salad like this: a kind of spicy and dressed plant matter. This is great on its own or served with a piece of roast chicken. “
Peel and thinly cut 2 medium radishes, such as watermelon or other sweet varieties, then add them to a large bowl. Season the slices with salt and pepper, then pour in a few tablespoons of olive oil. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the peel from 1 large lime in strips, then finely chop the peel. (Alternatively, use a microplane to finely grate the rind of the lime.) Spread the lime rind evenly over the radishes. Cut the lime in half and squeeze its juice over the slices as well. Toss the raffles to evenly cover with the dressing. Add the cut leaves of 1 set of ripe red pepper and toss with the radishes and garment until well covered. Use a vegetable peeler to remove large scraps from a wedge of parmesan and let them fall over the top of the salad until evenly covered before serving.
King Oyster and Wooden Ear Mushrooms With Cilantro Persillade
“The antagonism between the fleshy royal oyster mushrooms and the thin, cracked wooden ear mushrooms makes it an exciting dish. Simple parsley, traditionally a mixture of chopped parsley and garlic, is made here with coriander and invigorates the heart mushrooms. Serve this on its own as a vegetarian main course or as a side dish to pork chops or roast beef or game. “
Cut off any hard or dried bottoms of 6 large royal oyster mushrooms, then use a knife or vegetable peeler to remove the bottom inch of outer skin from the stems if you like. Cut the royal oyster mushrooms lengthwise into-inch-thick slices.
If using a grate, brush the oyster mushrooms with olive oil. If using a patella, heat a thin film of olive oil in the bottom of a large pan over medium heat. Add the slices to the pan (or to a hot grill), season with salt and pepper and cook, turning halfway through, until a deep golden brown all over, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer the slices to a serving dish and remove the pan from the heat.
While the mushrooms are cooking, make the parsley. Remove 2 to 3 sprigs of coriander leaves and soft stems from a bunch and place on a cutting board. Place 2 peeled garlic cloves on the coriander and chop the two together.
Return the patrol to medium heat and add a few more tablespoons of olive oil. Add 1 cup of fresh wooden ear mushrooms, season with salt and sprinkle with the parsley. Cook, tossing frequently, only until the mushrooms are hot and the garlic is no longer raw, 30 to 60 seconds. Spread the wooden ear mushrooms over the oyster mushrooms slices, then top with more fresh coriander leaves to serve.